Spring and Autumn Lawn Care Advice
Published 31 January 2022
Once you have put the time and effort into a lawn that suits your ground and climate, the next step is keeping it that way. These simple steps fit into a regular routine and help you avoid a dull, weedy lawn in future.
We recommend doing these jobs in spring and autumn. That gives the grass the summer to repair and grow, and in winter grass is usually dormant or growing very slowly.
Removing weeds, thatch and moss
All three can stunt growth by taking nutrients and air away from the roots.
Weeds
Weeds arrive in many ways: on pets and other animals, from birds, and even on our own clothes and shoes. They can turn up anywhere.
The simplest way to get rid of a weed is to pull it out whole, roots included. You can do this by hand or with one of the many tools sold for the job. If there are more than you have the time or patience for, spot spray them with an organic weed killer.
Thatch
Thatch is a layer of dead grass, leaves and stems that builds up between the grass and the soil.
It forms a barrier that stops moisture and nutrients soaking down to the roots. Thatchy areas feel spongy underfoot, and dull, dead patches show where the grass is going short.
The answer is scarifying: raking the thatch out of the lawn. There are plenty of tools to help with this.
Moss
Moss is one of the most serious lawn problems. It is a non-flowering plant that thrives where there is too much moisture, shade and weak turf.
Left alone, moss spreads and makes it harder and harder for grass to grow. It does best with:
- Shade
- Poor drainage
- Clay in the soil
- A thick layer of thatch
- Drought
To get rid of moss, find out which of these is the cause and reduce it. Then check the area regularly and keep it fed and scarified.
Drainage problems
A lawn with poor drainage can stay waterlogged for hours or even days, and that leads to other problems for the grass.
The two most common causes of standing water are the shape of the garden and how well the soil absorbs water.
Soil permeability
Lots of clay, thick thatch, dense layers of roots and compacted soil all stop water soaking in.
Depending on how bad it is, aerating can greatly improve the flow of water and air and reduce water sitting on the surface.
You can also change the soil itself. Choose plants that suit your soil type, or improve it over time with organic material. Spreading loamy soil and fertiliser over the existing turf is easy with a lawn levelling rake.
The shape of the garden
When planning a garden, give it a shallow, even slope so water runs away from the house. Water collects in dips, and over time that damages the grass and roots, so it is worth preventing.
If you can, fit gutters and drains to take rainwater away from the lawn. Collecting it in water butts saves water for dry summer spells. For a spot that will not drain, plant something that likes wet ground, or build the area up and change the slope, which a lawn levelling rake makes much easier.
Aeration
Aerating lets air and water get right down to the roots, so the grass gets the nutrients it needs. Gardeners and greenkeepers use it to manage lawns affected by drought or waterlogging.
It means making small holes in the soil at regular spacings and depths, with a garden fork or a purpose-made tool or machine. A pair of aerator shoes is an easy way to get good results.
Most lawns need aerating every few years, depending on their size and soil. A small patch that needs extra care can be done on its own.
Over-seeding
To bring a tired, worn lawn back to life, over-seed it: spread a mix of seed and fertiliser across the whole lawn. A lawn leveller spreads the mix evenly and fills the dips. Thin and damaged areas fill in quickly, which improves the whole lawn and leaves less room for weeds and moss.
For the best results, scarify and/or aerate first. Then mow, water well and over-seed.
Afterwards, keep the lawn moist so the seed germinates, and add a top dressing of loam and fertiliser to protect and feed the seed. The lawn leveller spreads it gently and evenly over the existing grass.
For a healthy lawn, over-seed once a year.
Mowing and edging
When you mow, take off no more than a third of the length of the grass. How often you need to mow depends on the time of year and the weather.
In autumn and winter, especially when there is frost, you will mow much less, as the grass is close to dormant. In spring and summer, as it warms up, the grass grows faster and you will mow more often.
Do not mow when the soil or grass is wet, as it can damage the lawn and hold back healthy growth. If your mower has a roller, change direction each time you mow.
To keep edges and borders tidy, use a half moon edger or edging shears after mowing.
Feeding and watering
Garden centres and hardware shops sell plenty of lawn feeds and fertilisers. Which one you need depends on your soil and your local weather. Follow the instructions for the product you choose.
As a rule, feed your lawn twice a year: in spring with a nitrogen-rich feed, and in autumn with a fertiliser high in potash and phosphate.
Your lawn also needs enough water. Grass that is short of water changes colour and loses its spring, so it stays flat when you walk on it.
How often and how much to water depends on your soil and weather. Avoid overwatering. Water early in the day, when it is cooler, for the best results.
Top dressing
Top dressing improves and builds up your soil. It also helps the lawn cope with drought, improves drainage and levels out bumps and dips. A lawn levelling rake makes spreading it quick and easy.
The right mix of materials depends on the soil in your garden, so check which suits yours.
We hope these tips help you keep your lawn in good shape. Clear away dead leaves and twigs, and cut back anything that casts unwanted shade, and your lawn should stay lush and healthy.